The Ultimate Visual Buyers Guide to the M65 Field Jacket

Known worldwide for its iconic appearances in mainstream media and countless after-market commercial reproductions, the M-65 field jacket has flawlessly integrated into the world of modern fashion. Its utilitarian, simple yet stylish design appeals to a wide audience from casual vintage fashion followers to military enthusiasts alike.

The M65 was first developed in 1965 and had a lengthy service life before its relatively recent departure from US military service. Since its conception, numerous other militaries have adopted and copied the design for their own use. More recently, a handful of British news correspondents and Ukrainian servicemen have been seen wearing M65s in Ukraine, meaning this timeless jacket can still withstand the challenges of the modern battlefield.

The overall form of the M65 is akin to its predecessor and many of the characteristics of the M-1951 jacket were carried over into the newer model. However, the use of ‘hook and loop’ fasteners (Velcro) in place of buttons is one of the defining features of the M65 and is what really sets it apart from older field jackets. Furthermore, the M65 eliminates the necessity for a separate detachable hood by integrating one into a zip-fastened compartment inside the collar. The M65 also has attachment points that accommodate a removable quilted liner and an external fur-trim hood for colder weather. The shell is made from a midweight nylon/cotton blend wind-resistant sateen fabric, fully lined with a lightweight nylon/cotton blend wind-resistant poplin.

Since its initial development in the mid-60s, several minor updates to the design were implemented. While these changes bear little improvement to the practicality or ‘look’ of the M65, they can serve collectors and military hobbyists who wish to identify when their jacket was produced. While contract labels will always offer an exact two-digit date code, if the labels are missing, one may use these particular nuances to their advantage. 

Contract Labels

Contract Labels are undeniably the best way to date any piece of US Military uniform or equipment. They contain useful information that you can use to determine the authenticity of your jacket, find sizing information, etc. Most M65s will have a contract label inside the jacket under the collar, and on earlier models, on the lining under the bottom right pocket. Early contracts will also have an instruction label which can be found in the same place.

Above: Top left to bottom right: 1966, 1967, 1970, 1977, 1980, 1989, 2008, Alpha Ind. Civilian Copy (note the 'RN' number which indicates manufacture for the civilian market)

While this post won't go into deep detail about contract labels, there is one simple method to estimate when any piece of US Military clothing or equipment was made based on the information provided on the contract label. The key is the contract number, which will begin with one of the following prefixes: DSA, DLA, SPO, or SPM. Within this number, you'll find a two digit date code. 

This code doesn't strictly indicate the exact year the jacket was manufactured, instead, it refers to the fiscal year (FY) in which the contract was awarded to the manufacturer. Some contracts ran for several months, sometimes over a year before fulfillment, so the date code might not always match the actual production year of the garment.

The title of the garment may also be used to identify the time period of which a jacket was manufactured. If the contract number is illegible, the title (at the top of the label) may be used to roughly date an M65. Below are two examples of how OG-107 M65s were titled within their respective timeframes.

Above: 1966-1970: COAT, MAN’S, FIELD, WITH HOOD, NYLON COTTON SATEEN, OG-107

Above: 1971-1991: COAT, COLD WEATHER, MAN’S, FIELD, OG-107

Zips

The surest way to quickly identify an early M65 is by looking at the zips on the main closure and behind the collar. Chromed alloy zips were used from the very first contract in 1965 until 1971 (which conveniently coincides approximately with the end of US involvement in Vietnam). If you can be sure that the zip hasn’t been replaced, all ‘chrome zip’ M65s may be considered wartime and are generally much more desirable than later production models. From 1972 onward, M65s were manufactured with brass zips until 1986 when they were changed again to plastic.

Above: 1966-1971 Chrome (left), 1972-1986 Brass (centre), 1986-2008 Plastic (right)

Cuffs

Two types of cuff adjustment options may be found on M65s and the change was made only a few years into production in 1968. The first type which may be seen on 1st and 2nd pattern M65s has a gusset; an additional piece of poplin fabric (same fabric as used on the lining) sewn between the ‘hook-and-loop’ adjustment tabs. This allows the cuff to be adjusted and secured without distorting the shape of the lower arm. This feature was removed on all M65s with 1969 contracts onward. 

Above: Type 1 bellows cuff (left), type 2 straight cuff (right)

Epaulettes

The rarest and most sought-after version of the M65 is the 1st pattern, which is easily recognised by its lack of shoulder epaulettes. This early model was produced exclusively under the initial contract runs, dated FY1965 and FY 1966. Compared to later versions, it was manufactured in significantly smaller quantities.

Above: 1st Pattern (top), 2nd Pattern (bottom)

Camouflage Patterns

The US Military adopted numerous camo prints between 1965-2008 - three of which transferred onto the M65. 

The first camouflage pattern to be officially printed on US issue M65s was the Woodland camouflage pattern (commonly referred to as M81 Woodland). The first Woodland M65 contracts were awarded in FY1980 and final contracts were awarded in FY2001. 

For use in Iraq and Afghanistan, the ‘3-Colour Desert’ (DCU) camouflage pattern was printed on M65s. The first contracts were awarded in FY1989 and the final contracts were awarded in FY1999.

From my research, I have only found UCP M65s with contracts in FY2006 and FY2008, making it the shortest-lived camouflage pattern to be printed on M6

Keep an eye out for M65 jackets made from genuine surplus RDF ERDL (NLABS-2) printed fabric. Although these were never officially issued to the military and were instead produced for the commercial market, they've gained a certain prestige among collectors and are now considered rather desirable.

You may also come across other commercially made M65s in a range of camouflage patterns, sich as tigerstripe or 6-Colour Desert ("Choc-Chip"), but like the RDF versions, these were intended for civilian use only and were never made under military contracts.

Above: Left to right: Woodland, 3-Colour Desert, Universal Camouflage Pattern

Liners

There are three official types of removable button-in liners made for the M65 jacket. The earliest type, featuring double quilting, is the rarest and most collectable, while the infal version is the most practical, offering a three-button from closure, offering standalone wearability.

All M65 liners are made from a lightweight, silky soft, wind-resistant nylon shell, with a polyester batting - A construction similar to the iconic USGI poncho liner, AKA the "Wooby".

Despite their lightness in weight, they provide a significant extra layer of warmth, making them an ideal partner to your M65 in colder months. Keeping a liner on hand transforms your M65 into a versatile, multi-seasonal jacket, perfect for both everyday wear and winter layering.

Above: Left to right: 1st Pattern, 2nd Pattern, 3rd Pattern

Above: A 1st pattern liner fitted to a 1st pattern jacket (left), a 2nd pattern liner fitted to a 2nd pattern jacket (right)

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